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Replacing the Fan Belt

  • Terry Cockerell
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09 Jul 2018 10:10 #34928 by Terry Cockerell
Replied by Terry Cockerell on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
Mike you forgot to mention putting the new belt in place. I couldn't resist either.
Cheers,
Terry

T cockerell

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  • RumRunner
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07 Jul 2018 16:00 #34921 by RumRunner
Replied by RumRunner on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
Thanks Mikespeed. If it were that easy on my Cord, what would I do with the rest of the day?! :-)
-Michael
The following user(s) said Thank You: Jonathan Richards, 1748 S

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  • Jonathan Richards
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07 Jul 2018 14:46 #34920 by Jonathan Richards
Replied by Jonathan Richards on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
Hello , Mikespeed . Your point is well taken. The simplicity ( antiquity ) of the L-29 Cord , versus the advanced design of the Models 810/812 Cord , definitely has its advantages as we who own or have owned the latter can attest. Complexity is not always better. We can all agree that both models are stunning and historic. See you in Auburn this fall, Jack Richards in Missouri.
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  • mikespeed35
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07 Jul 2018 04:00 #34919 by mikespeed35
Replied by mikespeed35 on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
L-29 Cord fan belt replacement.
Loosen two bolts.
Slid down adjustment assembly
Remove belt.
Slide up fan adjustment assembly
Tighten two bolts
Couldn't resist.
CORDiallyMike

Mike Huffman

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  • Jonathan Richards
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06 Jul 2018 21:02 #34918 by Jonathan Richards
Replied by Jonathan Richards on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
RumRunner ( aka Michael Ehrlich ) , you are fast becoming a Cord mechanic. Welcome to Cord ownership and to the ACD Club.

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  • RumRunner
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06 Jul 2018 20:34 #34917 by RumRunner
Replied by RumRunner on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
Thanks for all the help. I was successful in replacing the water pump belt today. Here is the process I followed for my supercharge Beverly:
1. Drain water – there are three stopcocks to open; one each on drivers side and passengers side centered down low on the engine block and one low on the large radiator water inlet.
2. Remove horns – this gives you some elbow room. Really only need to unscrew the long horns; the main horn bodies can be left in place.
3. Remove the upper radiator tubes.
4. Loosen the hose couplings between the water pump and water inlets on either side of the engine and slide them all the way down the inlet to be free of the water pump.
5. Remove the hard pipe and couplings attaching the supercharger to the water pump.
6. Remove the hose end from the water pump leading to the heater core (?).
7. Loosen the hose clamps on the large hose connecting the water pump to the bottom of the radiator. You will be able to remove this hose once the water pump itself is unbolted and free.
8. Disconnect the radiator support and lean the radiator forward. The radiator can be held in the forward-leaning position by looping a rope or webbing around the top of the radiator and tying it tightly to the front bumper. This provides just a bit more room between the radiator and the fan to get your hands/wrench in to access the next set of bolts.
9. Now that you have some room to work, loosen the two nuts on the pump pulley at the angled slots. Once the nuts are loose, the inner pulley face can be spun independent of the outer face and doing so will move the inner face toward the pump (along the angled slots) and relieve tension on the water pump belt. This is how the V-belt is tensioned. The inner pulley may be hard to move. Make sure you’re trying to spin it the correct way, put a large screwdriver in the holes adjacent to the slots, and give it a few hammer taps to get it to move. Relieve tension on the belt.
10. Remove the fan blade assembly. There are four bolts that hold the fan blade assembly to the pump flange. Remove these bolts and the fan can be removed. Note: Do NOT remove the castle nut to remove the fan blade assembly – you may need to remove the cotter pin, but that’s it – the castle nut should stay in place. Once the four bolts are remove, the fan blade assembly can be removed from the car – the radiator will need to be leaned forward to make room for this.
11. Remove the distributor. This needs to be removed so that the water pump can be tilted to get the belt off once the water pump is free. The distributor is held in place by a single bolt. Remove this bolt and slide the distributor up and out. Careful of all the wires.
12. Remove the lower bolts only on each of the water inlets on the engine block. The lower bolts must be removed to provide clearance to get the pump belt off the lower pulley. Just remove the lower bolts – keep the uppers tight, and don’t move the inlets themselves.
13. Remove the water pump. There are four bolts that affix the water pump to the transmission case. You’ll need a u-joint for your socket set to remove the forward of the two bolts. Once you get all four bolts out the pump is free. There are two small locating pins on the flange between the pump and transmission case that hold the pump in correct alignment. You may need to rock the water pump a bit to get it off these. Once free, tip the top of the water pump toward the engine to get the belt off, then the pump can be removed entirely from the car.
14. Remove the belt. With the pump out of the car remove the belt from the lower pulley.
15. Replace the belt with a new one (Gates TR26341 or equivalent; 23/32” x 34-5/8” cogged; 18mm x 879mm cogged).
16. Reverse the steps to re-install the water pump. Make certain that all captive hose couplings (like the large hose between the water pump and the radiator) are in place before you bolt the water pump back in place! Also, make certain that the radiator is no longer leaning forward when you re-attach the upper hoses! And if you removed the cotter pin on the fan blade castle nut, replace it!
-Michael

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  • JIM.OBRIEN
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01 Jul 2018 19:31 #34887 by JIM.OBRIEN
Replied by JIM.OBRIEN on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
Hi Michael,
The modern number for NAPA is 26341. Plan on about 6 hours to change the belt since you haven't done one, maybe more in this heat. I have it down to about 2 hours since I recently had a water pump out about 5 times on a Cord (that's another long story)
While the pump is out you may want to pull the pulley on the pump and take it apart and clean it up so you can adjust the tension easily when you put it back together. You really don't need much in the way of tension, just a little snug. Don't over tension it. The number I gave you is for a cog belt, it grips well. Excess tension will only wipe out the bearings in the water pump.

Also check your fan blades while it's apart and make sure there are not cracks in them. As long as the water pump is good, leave well enough alone. You can try to wiggle the ends of the shaft to make sure the bearing are good. Check hoses, you may want to replace them while you are in there. Again these are all standard items you should be doing as you work on this, I'm just mentioning it for those who don't think about it.

One other thing - have a universal joint and a long extension for your 3/8 sockets. It's about the only way to get the water pump off.

Good Luck!

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  • RumRunner
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01 Jul 2018 02:29 #34882 by RumRunner
Replied by RumRunner on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
Jim,

Thanks so much. After looking at a bit more today I decided it was NOT going to be a straightforward and quick job. Even releasing as much tension as possible and removing the distributor I still couldn't get the old belt off. I had pretty much decided that I needed to remove the water pump to do it, and now you've confirmed that! It's really only a few hours job - just hoping that it was only a few minutes job.

So, given that I'll have the cooling system apart to replace the belt, are there any other part I should check or replace? And any idea what the fan belt length/cross-section is? Or a modern day equivalent part number?

Thanks for all the help. Maybe I'll make a video to document the process.

-Michael

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  • 1748 S
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01 Jul 2018 02:06 #34881 by 1748 S
Replied by 1748 S on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
Thanks for the posting Jim.Sounds like an engineering nightmare changing the belt. I'm guessing once its done you probably never have to do it again... Unless you have a "driver"...

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  • JIM.OBRIEN
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01 Jul 2018 01:17 #34877 by JIM.OBRIEN
Replied by JIM.OBRIEN on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
Hi Michael,

Congratulations on getting Geneva!

Changing the water pump belt is a major job. If I can think straight I'll lay out the steps.
1. Drain water
2. Remove horns
3.Remove distributor
4. Pull the upper radiator tubes
5. If you have internal exhaust I like to pull the fence to give me some room
6. Disconnect the radiator support and lean the radiator forward - sometimes it's easier to pull the radiator - it makes pulling the water pump easier, you don't have to remove the fan then.
7. Remove the fan
8. Remove the water pump
9. Remove the lower bolts on the water inlets - if you don't do this you have to bend the pulley to get the belt off
10. You can now remove the old belt.
Reverse the steps to install the new belt.

Additional comments
at some point you will have to remove the flywheel cover plate on the bottom to retrieve a bolt you dropped down in the bell housing.

If you have questions let me know.
Jim

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  • 1748 S
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30 Jun 2018 02:08 #34856 by 1748 S
Replied by 1748 S on topic Replacing the Fan Belt
Congratulations are purchasing a great car. Jack had no issues driving this car from Arizona to Missouri when he purchased it. I'm not able to tell you how to remove the belt but am sure going to be watching this. Hopefully you do not have to roll the belt over the pulleys.

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  • RumRunner
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29 Jun 2018 18:11 #34854 by RumRunner
Replacing the Fan Belt was created by RumRunner
Hello Folks,
Michael Ehrlich here. I'm the proud new owner of "Geneva", the Geneva Blue Cord 812 Beverly Supercharged formerly owned by Jack Richards. The car is sitting in my garage now in Clarksville MD, and I was about to take her out for my first drive. Oil, check. Coolant, check. Fan belt - big chunk missing on the backside! Seems like the smart thing to do is to replace the fan belt before I take my inaugural drive. So I looked at the tensioning mechanism (turn and slide mechanism) and loosened the two nuts to relieve the tension. That work fine. Then I looked at the problem again, and it seems like I need to remove the distributor completely to have enough clearance to get the belt out of the car. Am I missing something? Perhaps loosening or removing the two bolts that hold the water pump/fan mount to the transmission case? Even doing that it just doesn't look the whole assembly will move much. Anyone have some expert advice? Also, if anyone has a part number that would be great. Service manual says it is a H10334, and cross-referencing that shows a cogged belt, which mine isn't.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

-Michael

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