Rebuilt Cord Headlight Switch

Thanks guys, I'm happy to report we made a number of new Cord Converts. The small crowd which gathered around the car while we were having an outdoor morning tea with friends had never seen a Cord before and were amazed at its many features and standard of restoration. The cameras were clicking in all directions.

Hi Gary.
Thanks for your prompt reply. I thought you would like the diagrams. I had to do them in order to understand how the switch worked. I worked out that I was loosing continuity between the four contacts with the metal strips between them so once they were soldered it all came back to life.
We never stop learning about these amazing automobiles.
Gai and I are heading to the garage to go for a ride in our Cord and the weather is perfect too.
Cheers,
Terry

he reason the sliding part has half of the ring cut off is for the path of voltage thru the switch in different phases. I tested the continuity thru my original switch I opened up way back in 1974. This switch has 5 different paths for voltage and not all have or have not voltage at different times. Its almost mythical how these switches work. The charging plate at the bottom inside has a very small bearing that sets in phases stamped into the body of the housing. Then a very small spring holds this bearing in place.Then a larger spring pushes down on all that but also has the "hat" on top pressing up on the board that has the "H" plate that transfers the voltage to the brass rivets under the cover. Note the main power connection rivet is flat. Its only used as a fastener. Not a point of conductivity like the other 8 rivets. The Auburn headlight switch has several more lugs for electrical connections. See the additional internal pictures.more lug connection but otherwise they are the same switch and can be used in either car. I learned that at the west coast meet when big red had a failed head light switch. Her owner asked me if my switch would work on her car. She asked Randy Ema who confirmed they  will work both ways. Thanks for the great pictorial information too. It helps me to understand "things" better.....Gary Parsons

Hi Gary. The first picture is an eye opener, I thought my switch had a broken sliding contact when I opened it up. So I made a new one with the four corner rings complete. I was still having continuity problems so made up the attached diagrams and realized some corrosion had taken place so soldered some of the internal mechanical connections.
The switch works fine now, I wonder why one contact was half cut away?

This switch has been taken completely apart. Cleaned and greased plus the board has been upgraded. The original boards failed with just a little heat from poor connections. It comes with the original screws and the terminal clips on the lugs with the 2 fuse each are 20 amp. I don't know when I will be making another switch but can repair or upgrade yours.Cost is $250.00...Thanks for looking.

Gary Parsons