list of standard bolts, nuts and washers

If using loctite on stainless hardware it must be primed to set up properly.
CORDially Mike

We continue to use split lockwashers because they came on our cars originally and because that's the convention. In fact, engineers consider a split lockwasher to be virtually useless. You won't find one on an airplane or a space shuttle, for example. In the NASA Fastener Design Guide, the author states the following regarding helical split washers: "In summary, a lockwasher of this type is useless for locking."

In our far-less-rigorous environment, and for original appearance we get along with them. But make no mistake ... the bolt that doesn't fall off is being held in place by the torque on the threads, not by the split lockwasher.

Nyloc or similar nuts will not loosen. (They used to be called "Elastic Stop Nuts". That company still makes them. Today they are generically referred to as "nylon lock nuts".) When I remove a nut that will never be visible from normal viewing positions I usually replace it with one of these. My late friend Tom Pendergast, an engineer and antique plane owner, drilled most of the nuts on his Cord and safety wired them! (That's a bit much.)

Simplest of all, and we should do this unfailingly and universally, is a drop of Loctite Blue.

Brickbats welcomed.

About 10% of the lock washers were broken when I took it apart so I would feel better replacing them. Any advantage or problems going with the high grade versions of lock washers?

I was planning to lightly wire brush the nuts and bolts, apply SEM rust seal and paint with cadmium paint. I would think the plating would be more rugged and less damaged when the bolts are installed. I thought I would need to touch up the cadmium paint after the bolts were installed which would be a real pain. What type of rust treatment are you using? What color are your bolts? Does the plating affect the dimension of the threads?

Just don't sandblast the screws and nuts, since the thread will give more friction , will be open to corossion and they will be more brittle .
I put them in chemical derusting solution and blackned or bluezinked by a plating company.
NEVER reuse splitwasher and the like for securing parts, since most of them are tierd, if you get them zinked for example they will brake; so will they brake too without chemical treatment !!!

My expirience and my 2 cents.

Thanks, I have thought about your comment. I worried about the car being held together with such old hardware, some of it badly rusted. I have changed my mind and I will clean up and inspect the old hardware. I will only replace the ones that are badly damage and who's failure would cause serious damage or affect reliability. If a horn falls off the bar, no big deal. Other hardware failures have a more serious effect. It will be a little extra work but worth it.

Is the parts list in the service manual, a good way to determine the original hardware. During disassembling of the car I noticed inconsistencies between right and left side bolts such as the use of lock or flat washers.

Thanks for everyone's help on my project. Every day on the forum is like trip to Auburn

The problem is ,we are not back in 1937, the correct hardware is not made today, only modern replacements, so it is best to save every part.
My 2 cents
Ken

I want to replace the old hardware as I work on my car. I was going to go through the parts list and add up all the standard parts by description to make the ordering easier but I thought someone must have already done this. Is there such a list?